A Chronicle of my Changing Times.

Concerning Hoskovo and other matters

I have a write up for Hoskovo, but upon rereading it I've decided to scrap it and use it for notes.  It was really interesting at the last HUB (2 weeks ago - an eternity when you've only been in country for less than 6 weeks) to go into the gym at the university we use and see a map of Bulgaria the size of a basketball court made of masking tape on the floor.  All around were names of towns and cities were we'd be placed.  We were called out one by one to our site cities and given a carnation.  Of course I was one of the last to be called - it came down to one of three possible cities, Haskovo and two other towns that seemed to be out and away from almost all the other volunteers.  Haskovo is on a the end of a string of about 8 volunteers that starts just outside of Plovdiv.  So between having people in my group close by and also have 3 other currently serving volunteers in my town, I think I'll have plenty of opportunity to visit when the need arises since it's a mere 90 minute bus ride to Plovdiv.

I was amazed when I got to Haskovo.  The town is truly beatiful in many places.  The European Union had given the city a grant about 3 years ago as part of "Beatiful Bulgaria" and they used it to revitalize a rather large portion of the center.  As it stands now, there's an enourmous walking/shopping area that's lined with too many cafe's to count.  The only thing more prevalent seems to be clothing stores.  There are also parklike sections with multicolored flowers and tall shade trees.  There's an active theater - which supposedly is georgous inside.  It has a cinema, an art gallary and there's a McDonalds being built.  The town's patron saint is the Virgin Mary - which is rather unusual for an orthodox city - and the largest statue of Mary in Europe sits atop a hill overlooking the town.  The joke I heard (repeatedly) was that Haskovo is the only town where a big virgin can get lit up everynight and still be a virgin the next morning.  It also has the oldest Mosque in the Balkans and a number of refined churches.

I'll be living at the top of one of the hills in town, right next to a rather large park.  I actually saw a number of joggers running in and out of the park whilst I was there - which was truly astonishing given this is Bulgaria and I haven't seen a single runner anywhere else I've been.  I've heard that other volunteers who run over here sorta get puzzled looks from the locals.  There's also a smallish military base just around the corner from me which lined with trees and has the NATO symbol displayed everywhere (and thus makes me think there might be some foreign troops coming through at some point or another).  I'm about a 10 minute walk from my school, which won't be so bad in the fall and spring - but I suspect the two hills I go over could be fun in the snow and ice.  My apartment block serves as a boardinghouse to a school that is not my own.  The apartment, itself, is gigantic - easily as large, if not larger than any apartment I've ever lived in.  Just to name a few things I have: a brand spanking new boiler (you have no idea how great this is), a washing machine, separate toilet and shower rooms (very rare here), a ton of storage space for my kitchen, what amounts to a queen size bed (two twins pushed together), a rather large closet, two night stands, a 14 ft wall unit, a pull out couch, two comfy chairs and an end table.  The floor through out the main room and bedroom is new faux hardwood.  The view from my window is of the foothills of the Radolpie Mts.  I have no one below me, and above me is my current school's storage for the unused books from their library.  So not only is it quiet, but I also have the opportunity to raid it whenever I run out of something to read in English.  Looks like I'm gonna have the chance to start on my classical reading list after all.

The school is large and has about 900 students.  A large part of what I'll be teaching will be what's called 8th class (or grade) or prepratory.  In Bulgaria to get into a language school you must first take a test to qualify (and show some Language proficiency).  So the student's I'll be teaching will at least have intermediate english backgrounds.  They then get about 20 school hours per week of intensive language study their first year.  Eventually they learn a third language (usually German) but that'll be in 10th or 11th class.  Otherwise, if I'm not mistaken, their instruction in other subjects is in English.  As a graduate of the American school system, this simply amazes me.  I'm one of 12 total English teachers and one of 85 teachers in the school.  My counterpart, or my direct contact in the school is named Dimitar.  We get along fine, but I have to say that I was a bit tired of spending time with him by the third day.  One of the things that amazed me most was the fact that he spoke fairly flawless English with a British accent even though he's never been to an english speaking country.  I've also spent a fair amount of time with a few of the other Enlish Prep teachers all who also speak (and think) in English.  The only pauses in our conversation was when they tried to translate untranslatable words in Bulgarian to English.

Overall I'm extreemly happy with my site.  It was great to hang out with (a very sick) Jen and Kate on Friday night.  The people seem great, the city is beautiful (and I can get McDonalds!), and I'm close to a number of people in my group.

We had our midterm LPI's (Language Placement Interviews) today.  Whilst I could have done better, I am truly amazed at how well I can speak after just 5 weeks in the country.  My problem with Bulgarian continues to be that I speak too much English everywhere I go.  Between my host family living in England for 4 years and running into English speakers everywhere I go (like at the store, on the train, at the cafe... even at the movie Saturday night).  It's frustrating to me, but I'm working on speaking more on a daily basis and probably will start having tutoring sessions with my Lang Trainer, Vesi, just to practice.

I'll be travelling a bunch the next few weeks.  On Wednesday, we'll be heading up to see an orphanage in the foothills.  Next week is HUB again (finally!) in Pazerdjik followed by a visit to Varna (on the black sea!) to work with/observe a volunteer who teaches in a Lang School just like I'll have.  The following weekend my group is going up to a resort town called Velingrad in the mountains to get some R&R.

So life continues here.  I find myself really enjoying teaching and I believe I'm doing well at it.  I do tire of my group in Septemvri sometimes, but I think that's to be expected after all the time we spend together.  But they're good people and I consider myself lucky to be here.

Well I should get going a reply to a few of the emails people have sent me...  I hope life's treating everyone well.

Posted by: mjmarble at May 30, 2005 08:08 | link | comments (1)

Yet another in my pervious updates...

One day soon, I'll have current posts - for now this will suffice.

Tough Decisions

This afternoon I had my placement interview.  Normally this wouldn’t have been a big deal, and for most people it’s not.  I, unfortunately, am not most
people.  Upon closer review of my resume the Secondary Education director noticed that I had done ESL tutoring back in Charlotte with elementary school children.  So she made me an offer to change programs and work with the Primary Program instead. 

Now this threw me for a loop.  Basically, I’d come to PC in the frame of mind to work with High School age kids.  I’d been in a number of meetings with the training coordinators of my program already.  To switch programs felt like changing things up midstream.  But there were pluses and minuses for both scenarios. 

On one end, Secondary would provide me a challenge by being by myself more.  It’d potentially allow me to teach a history class in English.  Most of my
volunteer work has been done with High School age kids. 

But then again, the Primary Program would be working with smaller children – which is where most of my ESL tutoring has occurred.  It has the potential to be a bit easier since it’ll be more team teaching instead of working solo.  However – I think it’s the more difficult assignment since most of those in the program have some type of teaching experience or educational background. 

And then there are some other factors.  The people I’ve bonded the best with are in the Primary Program.  Especially two named Erin and Amanda.  Now there’s no guarantee that either one would end up in my small training group, but there’s a chance.  To explain, for the next 10 weeks we’re divided into groups of 5 or so and sent out to satellite sites to work on technical and language training.  The primary and secondary programs are immediately separated. Most of the people I feel closer to are in the primary group.

So I was offered the switch today at noon and wrestled with it all afternoon.  Unable to make a decision, I flipped a coin and I’m sticking it out with the
Secondaries.  I’m not sure if this is the right decision, but I don’t know if I’d know either way.  I just hope I don’t regret not changing.

So tomorrow we find out our small group placement and Friday we head away from Strelcha to our new communities.  But tonight I’m sitting out on a bench overlooking the beautiful rolling hills that nestle Strelcha as the sunset and all is right in the world.  I wish I could describe the beauty that lies before me.  I feel genuinely content and satisfied with life.  Soon, the training will really pick up and I’ll be busy as can be, but tonight I’m just enjoying being alive.

Which I can truly appreciate after a topsy turvy day of unexpected decisions.

Posted by: mjmarble at May 24, 2005 12:25 | link | comments (2)

Back for more

I was smart last night at Jen's - I emailed my posts to myself.  I'm back in Septemvri but I'm not done with the Haskovo write up.  So I'll treat y'all to the second of Bulgaria.  Only one problem - those great pictures I've taken wouldn't upload to the internet, so they'll have to come later.  Till then...

Dobre Den

Today we were exposed to our first bit of language training.  I can now say “Good Day” “My name is
Michael” “I’m from America” and can count to ten. It’s a great feeling to be able to even begin
communicating with those around you outside of Peace Corps even if it is just the absolute basics.  Someone should ask me in 3 months if I’m still as excited, but for today it is a wonderful feeling.

One of the random events of the day included helping a horse untangle itself.  It had been tied up with a rather long leash around it’s leg but had managed to walk around a tree enough times that it was almost pinned to it.  Another PCT, Stephanie, and I managed to force it around the tree enough to free it.

There also was a thunderstorm that rolled through around dinner time.  Whilst everyone was still in
eating I ran out and grabbed my camera and caught a couple of great shots as the storm passed.  Hopefully I’ll be able to post a few.

I’m truly shocked at how well our group is getting along.  We have a number of really strong
personalities and extroverts yet everyone seems to mesh very well together.  I had another late night of beers and talking at the cafй/bar here on the grounds, although tonight with a different group.  It’s phenomenal how many people I feel comfortable with already.

Soon we’ll be broken up into our language training groups and head out for small group training.  I’m a bit nervous about this.  In my head there are a lot of people who I get along really well with, but I’d rather not have in my group.  And of course there are a lot of people I’d love to have there.  This is negative against anyone here, it’s just that in a group of 50 people you’ll always have those who you get along with better than others.  Given that I’ll be spending over 8 hours a day with this group just about every day over the next 10 weeks, I want people with whom I really connect well. 

We also have our placement interview this week.  I wasn’t nervous about them until I heard some PCT’s who’d had them talk.  It’s weird because we already have a job, yet they seem to interview us like we don’t.  I’m not sure what to make of that.  Mine’s in the next day or so.

The one sour up to this point is that I’ve picked up smoking again.  I really wish I hadn’t and I’m
considering hard on ways to nip this in the bud, but it’s hard over here.  I mean, we’re rather sheltered here and I’ve already started.  But then again, there are a lot of PCT’s who weren’t smoking at Staging but have started now.  I think there were 4 open smokers in Chicago, but now 2 days in country I can probably count about 15 who are open about it.  We’ll see how it goes.

Well that’s all from here tonight.  I’m still tired, but I know how much I want to be able to document and remember so many of these early day events.  Hopefully I can keep this up for a while.  Now just to find an internet cafe so I can actually post it.

Posted by: mjmarble at May 21, 2005 07:51 | link | comments

Someone Pinch Me

So here I sit in Haskovo in Jen Hill's apartment finally able to update this after having so much to say that I've now forgotten over half of it.  There's a lot to say, but I'm actually going to write up an entry tomorrow on the bus ride tomorrow - and by that I mean I'll be litterally writing it up and they transcribing it.  For now y'all can read some of my older posts.  Here's the long awaited first one... Enjoy...

You’re Home

It’s been a heck of a 4 days.  First off, I’m safe and sound in Strelcha, Bulgaria .  I arrived here earlier this afternoon with the other 50 of my Peace Corp Trainees safe and sound after a labourous 22 hour trek from Chicago .  The group is a good one and I can see the foundations and bonds of friendships beginning in many of them.

 

Staging is a rather unique event where we were given a load of general information on Peace Corps whilst also trying to get to know each other.  There was plenty of time to just hang around & get dinner or a few drinks.  A couple of my fraternity brothers, Brian and Jared with Brian’s boyfriend Lance took me out on Friday night.  Let’s say a bit of imbibing took place along with old stories and new ones made.

 

James showed up on Saturday to see me a bit after the day’s work at staging was done and we went out to dinner and repacked my bag for Bulgaria afterwards.  It really was good to see my closest friend again since I honestly don’t know when we’ll be able to meet up again.  After a number of mishaps Sunday morning which will forever show me how a branch of a tree can ruin the best laid plans of mice and Peace Corps, we managed to head off to the airport.

 

I honestly was worried with all the time I was spending with old friends that I would somehow miss out on the initial bonding in my training class.  Mind you, I wouldn’t change a thing about how staging went.  It was truly wonderful to see my friends again one last time and hopefully they’ll be able to come over for a visit or two.  And as it turns out, I don’t believe that I missed out on very much since much of the real bonding time has been done over the last day’s travels and our brief hours here in Strelcha.

 

Of course I didn’t sleep but 45 minutes or so on the first flight to Milan , but with all the excitement this can be expected.  There was little sleeping amongst the group as everyone talked and shared music together.  You could see things really beginning to wear on people during our layover in Milan and the flight to Sophia.  But we were heartily greeted by a large number of current PCV’s at the airport.  Seeing them there to welcome us seemed to bring the buzz back to the group for a while.  And for the record my first Bulgarian meal was from a McDonald’s at a rest stop on the way to Strelcha.

 

The country is beautiful.  It’s filled with Mediterranean style red tiled houses.  Spring has come with flowers blooming all around, the grass early spring green and fields tilled for planting.  I can verify there is such a thing as Bulgarian Red hair – which is rather scary if I might say so myself.  And the mountains are beyond gorgeous, especially with the green hills dotted with vineyards framing the white capped peaks.  But even with the mountains it’s surprisingly flat in many locations.

 

Yet examples of poverty are readily available as well.  We drove past many horse or donkey pulled carts driving down the main roads.  Many houses lie in ruins.  Litter is everywhere once you take a moment to look closely.  Modern office buildings are situated right next to crumbling warehouses just outside of Sophia.  Farming is done in seemingly random long strips rather than the square fields I grew up seeing in Ohio .  Country roads look like a patchwork quilt and bounce you right along.

 

But the country has great potential and is truly astonishingly beautiful.  It’s Europe before had been polished and scrubbed for tourist consumption.  And it’s wonderful.

 

And so are the many people here in my group are truly wonderful.  Just to name a few who have made favorable impressions – Beth and her husband Jon, Erin, Jon my roommate, Lucia, Melody, Mickie, Megaen, Andy and Amanda.  There are a ton of others who are running through my tired brain but since Jon has returned from the bar it’s time for lights out for this weary traveler.

 

Although one PCV made the observation as we landed in Sophia this afternoon.  He said, “Welcome home.”   It felt good to finally be here.

 

 

Posted by: mjmarble at May 20, 2005 15:47 | link | comments

Hoskovo!!!

So the verdict is in - I´m bound for at town of about 88,000 called Hoskovo in SE/Central Bulgaria.  I´ll be working in a language center, which basically means that I´ll be teaching at a HS specially designed for foreign languages - like English.  Just about everything about the site is wonderful (on paper at least).  I´ll be responsible for starting up a TOEFL/SAT program, they have projects on European integration & study abroad, I´ll be working with the drama club and debate, and I might be get to teach other topics like essay writing or something else. 

On top of that I´m also serving in the same site of the venerable Jen - who´s blog you can find off my PCV´s link to the left.  I´m headed over for a site visit on Wednesday with my counterpart I´ll meet tomorrow and I´m going to have a night out with Jen and Kate (who´s comeing down for a visit) on Friday night.  Should be a busy week, but I´ll try to drop in to update more later.  So it´s a good news day from me.  I´ll post more later.

Posted by: mjmarble at May 16, 2005 12:18 | link | comments (5)