A Chronicle of my Changing Times.

Live from Sarajevo...

I only have a minute here at an internet club in Sarajevo on a rather rainy day but I wanted to let people know I'm alive and well.  Well, OK - I'm exhausted and have traveled way too much in the last 48 hrs.   Life's good though.  We had problems with our reservations in Belgrade and found ourselves without a room at 1 in the morning in Belgrade our first night after a hellishly long ride there.  Luckily we were able to find some beds at another hostel in the center of town and crashed there for the night.  If anyone ever is going to Belgrade I'd highly recommend the Three Black Cats hostel as a uber friendly place to stay.

Outside of lodging, I found Serbians friendlier than expected and Belgrade as a city a rich blend of European city and modern life.  I'd heard before going there that there wasn't much to the city - but this is false.  The city is beautiful and there seems to be a lot to do that we only scratched the surface of given our limited time there.  We decided, since our backup hostel didn't have room for us the second night, to take an overnight bus to Sarajevo.  I managed to sleep most of the way thanks to a cold I'm fighting so the 8 hr trip seemed to fly by. 

Sarajevo, albiet a bit damp right now, is truly a city on the rebound.  Whilst we've walked past houses with bullet hole scars from the war here a decade ago the city is very much alive and growing.  It has a rich blend of architecture from the different periods of foreign rule.  The  city center is a large pedestrian walking zone with posh shops and wares.  Toss in the history associated with it, I walked past the corner where Archduke Franz Ferdinan was assasinated sparking World War I, and I love this midsized city.

We're spending another two nights here before heading onto Split and then Dubrovnik in Croatia.  Tonight will be a bit mellow since we're fairly tired, but with plenty of things to see and do, I'm guessing that the next 48 hrs will be wonderful.  Well, that's about it from here.  I have taken plenty of pictures I hope to get up whence I return.  Until then...

Posted by: mjmarble at December 28, 2005 14:23 | link | comments (1)

Merry Christmas...

These past few days have been a bit touch and go for me.  On one hand I’ve been very busy with friends and parties.  Thursday evening was the choir party for Radna Pecen – the choir I’ve joined here in Haskovo.  I discovered more people speak English than I’d previously thought and felt very much at home and welcomed.  I even received an award for “Best Bulgarian Adaptation” from the sopranos who organized the party.  But honestly, even amongst friends the longer I stayed there the lonelier I felt.  After the party I went out to the disco, Exclusive, to dance and met some friends there – but it was much the same.

Friday was a bit better for me.  I met up with Kalina, one of my closest BG friends, for a café before she had to go to work at KDK.  After picking up my presents for Pauna’s family I headed out to a restaurant for a party with my 11^th class students.  Apparently, I am the first teacher in four years to join them for any of their parties and thus was very warmly received.  I find this fact rather odd since I genuinely like these students.  After dancing and toasting with them (repeatedly) I headed back to KDK to meet up with some friends there. (Pictured: Some of my students)

I danced, drank and sang with them over the din of a very crowded bar.  It amazes me how much people go out around the holiday’s here.  It’s an interesting dichotomy; on one end family is of utmost importance to BG culture – yet people are always going out on days specifically designated family days.  In family is not stressed quite as much, yet we spend more time at holidays with them.  It’s interesting to say the least.  After KDK I met back up with my 11^th class students and went out to a disco and danced until the wee hours of the morning. (Pictured: Myself and some of my students dancing the hora)

But then came Christmas Eve and I spent it alone here in my apartment.  People who I was supposed to go out with ended up canceling on me.  So I stayed home, did laundry, listened to Christmas music and watched too many movies.  All the while I felt very much apart from those whom I love.

Today, Christmas, however has been a different story.  After getting up and making continued preparations for my trip tomorrow, I met with Petya (who’s back from Sophia for the holidays) and we had a café and went to church.  The church was beautiful, although without any Christmas decorations that one might see in .  There was a baptism whilst we were there, though.  Somehow it seemed rather appropriate and I’m glad I saw it. (Pictured: Myself and Lina - a friend and the owner of KDK's girlfriend)

Tonight I’m headed out to Pauna’s for Christmas dinner and such.  I’m looking forward to it even though I’m not quite sure where she and I stand.  If there’s time after Pauna’s I’m headed back to KDK to meet up with Petya and some other BG friends for some drinks.  Oh, and I still have to finish up packing for my trip tomorrow.

I’ll be gone for two weeks to , and – so updates might be spotty at best.  Hopefully I’ll stumble upon an Internet Café somewhere along the road and post something.  And of course pictures will follow whence I return.

But until then, I wish everyone a Merry Christmas and Happy New Year (should I not update again before then).  I hope that everyone remembers the reason for this season and that the next year carries many blessings for everyone.  As they say here in BG, “Do skoro” (until later).

Posted by: mjmarble at December 25, 2005 17:37 | link | comments

Snowy Days...

As promised, here are some pictures from around Haskovo after the snowfall this past week.  The snow’s still around, although much of it has melted.  We’re down to about 4 inches on the ground where people trampling it haven’t left it as hardened ice for me to slip and fall on.  It looks like BG’s don’t believe in salting their roads or sidewalks. (Pictured: A view towards the city center through the park next two my school)

I have to say, the boots I bought before I came here really make a difference.  I’ve foolishly put on my regular shoes to go out a few times (like when going out to the disco last night) and  have basically skated everywhere, although luckily not onto my arse quite yet.  At this rate, either I’ll end up cracking my head or pulling a groin before the winter is over.  I guess it’s just part of my Peace Corps experience. (Pictured: My school in it's glory)

I’m also including a link to more photo’s I’ve taken whilst here these past seven months.  I have to go in and finish editing titles on the pictures, but I thought it important to get the link out there to view for those who are interested.  Of course, I look to add more pictures as time goes one so I probably will add a link (when I have some time) to the side panel.  Enjoy!

Posted by: mjmarble at December 23, 2005 19:46 | link | comments

Just plain wrong...

My former sitemate Jen once criticized my blog in that it was too happy and fluffy – no real angst to it.  She said that there was no real self examinations or problems shown.  I don’t know if I agree with that assessment in its entirety, but often times I do show the positive side of both myself and my world instead of some of the problems I see.  Personally I think this is because, outside of the ongoing riddle that is women, I am fairly content with my world now. 

But I digress back to my point; after big fluffy snowflakes of yesterday I got an email last night from another PCV friend in BG who had a rather disturbing story to relate.  Here’s an excerpt, used with her permission:

So after school I went out to coffee with Albena (teacher) and Emily (volunteer).  We were talking about various things, Christmas gifts, etc. I brought up that I was kind of disturbed because Saturday when I went to the local graphic designer/photographer I saw my 9th class student there.  She is pretty good in spoken English, but struggles with written, but is over all a really good kid. 

Background

The photographer was dating a 17-18 year old up until early summer when they broke up. From my best estimate they had been dating for over a year or maybe more.  The photographer is 32.  He takes pictures of my students, starting at 8th class, in next to nothing, string bikini's and the like, in suggestive poses - like choosing an angle from between their legs…

So everytime I see him he wants me to look at his artwork of these kids. I'm never quite sure what to say, but needless to say it is somewhat bothersome when you see your 13-14 year old students in the pictures.  One of my BG friends (not from Sandanski) thought one of them seemed like a pimp because he had every pretty high school girls name in his cell.

So, today I found out this guy, the assistant director (the photographer’s friend), quite possibly helps hook the girls up with older guys and helps them get abortions.  The parents often know, or at least the mothers, but don't care because the older, often married boyfriends buy the girls/families presents, like washing machines, and give the girls money for the cafe and shopping.  And yes- the photographer sleeps with many of his models.

I was told that my students, although they don't quite consider it this way, they are working girls.  Emily mentioned this was something we should cover in our trafficking in human beings meeting.

We were then told that it is not something to be fixed... the men would obviously be unhappy, the girls wouldn't be getting money, and the families no washing machines.  In addition the 2 guys would be mad at us.  Nobody wants this system to change.

I cannot express how angry this situation makes me.  I can only say that I’m glad that I haven’t run into anything like this here in Haskovo.  First off, I’m glad it’s not a wide spread problem.  Second, I would make a big deal of it and most likely burn innumerable connections in the community.  But when you see something that is so blatantly wrong I feel like you have to take action.  This is straight up statutory rape at the least, not to mention morally reprehensible for the families of these girls and the men involved. 

I’m not in the situation, so it’s out of my realm to do anything about out outside of put this out there and raise awareness (albeit via this limited medium) of such a horrid thing occurring.  Maybe I’m naïve, but it’s just difficult for me to accept that this type of situation should be allowed to continue. 

Posted by: mjmarble at December 20, 2005 00:46 | link | comments (3)

Tis the season...

As I sit here typing this, I’m looking out my window at a winter wonderland of snow burying Haskovo.  We’ve already had well over a foot of snow fall in that last 24 hours and it’s looking like it’ll snow throughout the night.  This past week or so I’ve really begun to hear many of my Bulgarian friends begin to wonder when the snow was going to come.  Not that Haskovo, being more southern in BG, gets all that much snow; but we’ve apparently had a unusually mild fall and beginning of winter.  Many say this will lead to a horrible winter once it sets finally comes.  We shall have to see… (Pictured - One of the trees in the center)

But as it stands, I find the snow rather fitting.  This past Wednesday I went out with a friend of mine, Pauna, and bought a Christmas tree and decorations for my apartment.  It was surprisingly easy to do here since every year Christmas seems to get bigger here.  This past week or so the streets have suddenly been lined with stalls selling ornaments, presents, fake trees and other holiday items.  And this is on top of the 3 or 4 actual stores that have opened up selling solely Christmas items.   (Pictured below - One of the many stores that have sprung up in Haskovo and the one I did most of my shopping at.)

Throughout Haskovo the city seems to have embraced the season.  First all the streetlights throughout the center had tasteful lights in the shape of evergreen trees put on them.  The following week a huge tree were put up in the main square in front of the Chichalishte (Community Center), the city’s Business Center, as well as in front of the Obshtina (Municipality Building).  Finally, decorative light banners were put up over the pedestrian walkways in the center.  Almost every shop has tinsel, lights, trees and other decorations up.  Toss in the lights that have appeared in the windows of many of the block apartments and the city is beginning to have a bit of festive feel to it.

So Wednesday night I went out shopping with Pauna for my decorations.  We got sidetracked on the way home and I ended up at my first Na Gosti (impromptu party usually with a lot of food, Rakiya [homemade brandy] and homemade wine which is popular here in BG) here in Haskovo.  It all started because Pauna wanted to pick up a chess set she had at her family’s apartment so we stopped by on the way back to my apartment.  Next thing I know its 8 hours later (4 am, for those keeping track at home) and I’m stumbling home. (Pictured - One of the pedestrian streets in the center.)

So the next night Pauna came over and helped me put up my decorations.  After stringing up the lights, she informed me that I needed to sit down and let the professional take over.  So I watched as she hung my ornaments and garland.  I was allowed to put the star on top the tree when she was done, so I did have a little bit of a hand in the decorating.  I must say that I’m impressed with how well it came out. (Pictured right - Pauna  taking charge of my Christmas decorating.)

This upcoming week looks to be a busy one with work at the school, choir practices, holiday parties, packing for my trip over the holiday break (going to Serbia, Bosnia and Croatia) and then celebrating Christmas this next week.  I’m not going back to Septemvri as I’d originally planned, but will instead be spending it with Pauna and her family.  I’m really interested to see how Bulgarians celebrate the day.  Maybe this blustery snow that’s still falling this evening will be around and I’ll have my first White Christmas in about 15 years.  One can hope.... (Pictured below - my tree.)

Posted by: mjmarble at December 18, 2005 23:00 | link | comments (5)

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