Big Enough Umbrella

Monday, 30 May 2005

Concerning Hoskovo and other matters

I have a write up for Hoskovo, but upon rereading it I've decided to scrap it and use it for notes. It was really interesting at the last HUB (2 weeks ago - an eternity when you've only been in country for less than 6 weeks) to go into the gym at the university we use and see a map of Bulgaria the size of a basketball court made of masking tape on the floor. All around were names of towns and cities were we'd be placed. We were called out one by one to our site cities and given a carnation. Of course I was one of the last to be called - it came down to one of three possible cities, Haskovo and two other towns that seemed to be out and away from almost all the other volunteers. Haskovo is on a the end of a string of about 8 volunteers that starts just outside of Plovdiv. So between having people in my group close by and also have 3 other currently serving volunteers in my town, I think I'll have plenty of opportunity to visit when the need arises since it's a mere 90 minute bus ride to Plovdiv.

I was amazed when I got to Haskovo. The town is truly beatiful in many places. The European Union had given the city a grant about 3 years ago as part of "Beatiful Bulgaria" and they used it to revitalize a rather large portion of the center. As it stands now, there's an enourmous walking/shopping area that's lined with too many cafe's to count. The only thing more prevalent seems to be clothing stores. There are also parklike sections with multicolored flowers and tall shade trees. There's an active theater - which supposedly is georgous inside. It has a cinema, an art gallary and there's a McDonalds being built. The town's patron saint is the Virgin Mary - which is rather unusual for an orthodox city - and the largest statue of Mary in Europe sits atop a hill overlooking the town. The joke I heard (repeatedly) was that Haskovo is the only town where a big virgin can get lit up everynight and still be a virgin the next morning. It also has the oldest Mosque in the Balkans and a number of refined churches.

I'll be living at the top of one of the hills in town, right next to a rather large park. I actually saw a number of joggers running in and out of the park whilst I was there - which was truly astonishing given this is Bulgaria and I haven't seen a single runner anywhere else I've been. I've heard that other volunteers who run over here sorta get puzzled looks from the locals. There's also a smallish military base just around the corner from me which lined with trees and has the NATO symbol displayed everywhere (and thus makes me think there might be some foreign troops coming through at some point or another). I'm about a 10 minute walk from my school, which won't be so bad in the fall and spring - but I suspect the two hills I go over could be fun in the snow and ice. My apartment block serves as a boardinghouse to a school that is not my own. The apartment, itself, is gigantic - easily as large, if not larger than any apartment I've ever lived in. Just to name a few things I have: a brand spanking new boiler (you have no idea how great this is), a washing machine, separate toilet and shower rooms (very rare here), a ton of storage space for my kitchen, what amounts to a queen size bed (two twins pushed together), a rather large closet, two night stands, a 14 ft wall unit, a pull out couch, two comfy chairs and an end table. The floor through out the main room and bedroom is new faux hardwood. The view from my window is of the foothills of the Radolpie Mts. I have no one below me, and above me is my current school's storage for the unused books from their library. So not only is it quiet, but I also have the opportunity to raid it whenever I run out of something to read in English. Looks like I'm gonna have the chance to start on my classical reading list after all.

The school is large and has about 900 students. A large part of what I'll be teaching will be what's called 8th class (or grade) or prepratory. In Bulgaria to get into a language school you must first take a test to qualify (and show some Language proficiency). So the student's I'll be teaching will at least have intermediate english backgrounds. They then get about 20 school hours per week of intensive language study their first year. Eventually they learn a third language (usually German) but that'll be in 10th or 11th class. Otherwise, if I'm not mistaken, their instruction in other subjects is in English. As a graduate of the American school system, this simply amazes me. I'm one of 12 total English teachers and one of 85 teachers in the school. My counterpart, or my direct contact in the school is named Dimitar. We get along fine, but I have to say that I was a bit tired of spending time with him by the third day. One of the things that amazed me most was the fact that he spoke fairly flawless English with a British accent even though he's never been to an english speaking country. I've also spent a fair amount of time with a few of the other Enlish Prep teachers all who also speak (and think) in English. The only pauses in our conversation was when they tried to translate untranslatable words in Bulgarian to English.

Overall I'm extreemly happy with my site. It was great to hang out with (a very sick) Jen and Kate on Friday night. The people seem great, the city is beautiful (and I can get McDonalds!), and I'm close to a number of people in my group.

We had our midterm LPI's (Language Placement Interviews) today. Whilst I could have done better, I am truly amazed at how well I can speak after just 5 weeks in the country. My problem with Bulgarian continues to be that I speak too much English everywhere I go. Between my host family living in England for 4 years and running into English speakers everywhere I go (like at the store, on the train, at the cafe... even at the movie Saturday night). It's frustrating to me, but I'm working on speaking more on a daily basis and probably will start having tutoring sessions with my Lang Trainer, Vesi, just to practice.

I'll be travelling a bunch the next few weeks. On Wednesday, we'll be heading up to see an orphanage in the foothills. Next week is HUB again (finally!) in Pazerdjik followed by a visit to Varna (on the black sea!) to work with/observe a volunteer who teaches in a Lang School just like I'll have. The following weekend my group is going up to a resort town called Velingrad in the mountains to get some R&R.

So life continues here. I find myself really enjoying teaching and I believe I'm doing well at it. I do tire of my group in Septemvri sometimes, but I think that's to be expected after all the time we spend together. But they're good people and I consider myself lucky to be here.

Well I should get going a reply to a few of the emails people have sent me... I hope life's treating everyone well.